Selenap, While I can understand the idea you have that a pig because it "lies" to the injectors that it also may slow or interfere with the process of firing the injectors. because they want to keep selling you PIGs. PIG sellers opinions will obviously differ. That's why the AT product is so "hated" on Psycho Bike. They are outdated technology.Īnd Dynojets AutoTune is so slow at sampling, 9 samples per second that no serious drag racer would use one for tuning at the strip. Listen, if ECU tuning was available since the beginning of FI, does anyone think that PIGS would have ever been developed? Of course not. As designed into the functionality of the ECU itself. The ECU doesn't have to respond or react to correct anything, it is SEEKING the correct # and can then use its 'correct' parameters to keep it there. The AFR is correct in a DIFFERENT and scientifically FASTER way than with a spliced in PIG. ![]() REACTION.Ī flash does not require a lie to correct the AFR. It tells a ECU running proportionately lean to elicit a richen-ing response. The mathematical scientific FACT is a PIG works how? It takes "honest" information from the ECU then "lies" to the fuel injectors. There is a way to get good idle and off idle response though with the AT. The WB O2 sensors can drift and don't last forever so adjustment should usually be done and the map updated and then the AT disabled/removed and so NOT used to continually adjust as you ride.Īt low RPM with an open exhaust system outside air can reverse thru the muffler and pollute the sensor readings. On the road the off power areas can be adjusted for good cruising and mileage if that's what you're after using the AT. This is generally on a dyno or at a drag strip. Generally you will log during the operational envelope you are interested in making power then shut down and look at the corrections you can make. How well these work depends on the person/approach used to apply them. DJ, Woolich and some others have loggers and software to do this. But if you're serious racer and want to squeeze every bit of power you may want to tune to differing conditions. If you get the full package EXH/ECU/PCV from Brock you're +99% there and most people would call that a day. I did not find much good usage information on the net either even from DJ that makes it. You just have to understand how and why it works and how best to use it. I have tuned bikes with auto-tune and it does work. I don't necessarily disagree with GoFaster but. ![]() Gentle part-throttle low-revs cruise should be slightly lean - not only to save fuel and reduce emissions but also to cut down carbon build-up and cut down the amount of fuel that ends up diluting the engine oil AND because there is no need for the engine to run rich under those conditions - and the throttle response is usually better (obviously as long as you don't go overboard). Full load higher revs has to be slightly rich to protect the engine. If you see someone wanting or aiming to do that, run the other way. If you have had a GOOD re-mapping done by a good tuner, Autotune should not be able to improve it.Ĭaution: not all people who have a dyno and the capability to re-map fuel injection systems, know what they are doing.Īiming for a constant air/fuel ratio everywhere in the map is not a good thing. Then you switch over to transient conditions and sort out the correction factors for changing throttle position, etc. ![]() The best way to map a fuel injection controller is to hold the engine at every plausible steady-state combination of throttle position and RPM and then sweep both the fuel delivery and ignition timing to obtain the best results. By the time the lambda sensor gets a reading, the engine's operating condition has already changed to something else. The actual map inside the bike's ECU is mapped very finely near zero throttle position so that it can deal with this.Īutotune also doesn't deal with hard acceleration well. So the autotune tries to find a setting that it wants based on varying load conditions that it can't distinguish, and it ends up jumping all over the place and always being wrong. For the liter bikes, idling, cruising at a constant (say) 50 km/h, coasting with throttle shut through 50 km/h, accelerating gently at moderate revs, and holding the revs constant in neutral at a few thousand RPM, are all 0% throttle position as far as the PowerCommander is concerned - but they are all obviously different load conditions. PowerCommanders throttle position resolution is 0, 2, 5 percent open. Īutotune does not work well at low revs and small throttle positions. No H2 experience, but "general" experience, and I will explain why.
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